You take your dog to the veterinarian for his annual exam.  They draw blood for a heartworm test, the obtain a fecal sample to check for internal parasites, the veterinarian performs a physical exam and then they give him his "annual vaccines".  Do any of these questions pop into your head? "What are these annual vaccines?  Are they necessary? Is there an alternative to these vaccines?  What is the difference between modified-live vaccines and killed vaccines?  Are all vaccines needed for my pet in the area I live?  My pet doesn't go outside, does it still need vaccines?" No?  Well they should.  They pop into the minds of veterinarians and has started some very heavy debates among them. The best thing to do is to do a little research and have a heart to heart with your veterinarian.  The next series of blogs will explore these questions. Here is a bit of information to get you started.

Dogs:

Let's start with what they call "core-vaccines".  These normally are the "required" vaccines.

Rabies - Whether a dog or a cat, this vaccine is more often than not required by the state you live in and for good reason.  Rabies is everywhere, whether you live in the most remote areas of the country or the most developed cities.  Rabies can be carried by any warm blooded animal, including humans. The most common carriers (and the ones that are the biggest threat to humans and pets) are  bats, monkeys, raccoons, foxes, skunks, cattle, wolves, coyotes, dogs, or cats. Rabies may also spread through exposure to infected domestic farm animals, groundhogs, weasels, bears and other wild carnivores. It is a deadly viral infection that attacks the brain and central nervous system.

  

It is normally spread through the transfer of the virus via blood or saliva - hence a bite is the most ideal situation.  So if your pet goes outside - at all - it is highly recommend that your pet is give a rabies vaccination. If your pet does not go outside for any reason, it is still recommended to have this vaccine.  Why?  Many state laws require it for one reason, and for a second reason, if your pet should happen to bite a person, that pet will need to be taken away for observation for rabies.  It isn't worth it.  

Dogs normally get a Rabies vaccine every 3 years (except during the puppy vaccine cycle - they receive their first vaccine at 12 to 16 weeks and then again the next year).  The rabies vaccine involves administering a small dose of killed virus in order to provoke a response from your dog's immune system, triggering it to create antibodies to fight future infection without actually giving your dog the disease. There is also a form of the vaccine available for people who work in high risk jobs that might bring them in contact with infected animals.

There is a small amount of danger with the Rabies vaccine.  Allergic reactions are extremely rare but not impossible and some sarcomas (malignant cancers of connective tissue like fat and cartilage) have been attributed to the vaccine.  This is one vaccine that is given intramuscular or subcutaneously (under the skin) so talk to your veterinarian about where they give the vaccine and the risks. If you truly believe that your pet is at no risk or either being bitten or biting someone, talk to your veterinarian about your concerns of vaccinating.

DHPP (the Distemper Vaccine) - This vaccine normally comes as a combo vaccine that covers Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo virus and Parainfleunza.  It will sometimes include Leptospirosis as well (DHLPP) but many veterinarians are choosing to vaccinate them separately as the new DHPP vaccines are given every 3 years while Leptospirosis is needed every 6 months to a year in high risk areas. Let's look at all the components separately:

Sounds serious doesn't it?  It is but what many veterinarians don't tell clients is that after the first few years of vaccinating, many dogs don't need the vaccine anymore.  The way the vaccine is designed it that it helps the body build up a defense against these viruses.  If the bodies antibody levels are high enough, then no vaccine is really needed.  After for dog has gone through the puppy vaccines (starting at 6 weeks of age and then every 3 weeks until they are 12 to 16 weeks old) start discussing the option to titer instead of vaccinate.

Titering is a way to test those antibody levels.  It is a simple blood test.  What is the difference?

Pros - no need for unnecessary vaccinating, no chance of allergic reaction, proof that your pet is protected

Cons - more expensive than a vaccine, if levels are low then vaccination is needed anyway, time constraints (it may take some time until the results are back from the lab)

Talk to your veterinarian about what is best for your dog.

Your dog is inside only?  It doesn't come in contact with any other dogs?  Does your pet still need to be protected? Yes!  All of these viruses can be contracted via the air, contact with urine or feces and some even last up to months outside its host.  If your dog is at the veterinarian, it is at risk. If your dog is riding in your car or sitting by an open window, it is at risk. Get your pet protected.

Watch out for the next blog when we look at some of the "non-core" vaccines for dogs such as Bordetella, Leptospirosis and Lymes.  After that, we'll look at cats!

Always remember - talk to your veterinarian. If they question why you are questioning them, look for a new veterinarian.  This is your pet we are talking about, find a veterinarian that will listen and talk with you but always give you the best options.

Cat urine...not many things smell worse that this substance, especially from an un-neutered male cat.  If you have never had the pleasure of smelling this substance, consider yourself lucky.  For those that have, you understand. 

2. Cats want their litter box clean - sometimes a weekly cleaning is all that is necessary but many cats want their box cleaned out daily.  You may need to experiment to see how often your cat prefers a litter cleaning.

3. Size does matter for some cats - the size of the litter box, the amount of litter in that litter box, does it have a top, is it open for the world to see, does it have a funny little sounding automatic cleaning system, etc.  All of these can have an effect on whether your cat will use its litter box.  My cat is only 14lbs and yet I needed to custom make a litter box from a large outdoor container box.  Remember to think of your cat's needs not what you like to see.

4. The type of litter - this can be a huge decision maker for the cat. There are several hundred types of litter on the market.  Pine, recycled newspaper, crystals, clumping, non-clumping, perfumed, non-perfumed, and many more.  Cats are particular here, experiment and see what your cat likes best.  Some have allergies to certain litters as well so keep this in mind.

5. Placement of the litter box - you wouldn't want your toilet next to your dinning table would you? Then why place your cat's litter box next to it's food bowl?  Why place the litter box on the second floor when your cat doesn't like walking upstairs?  If your cat isn't using the litter box where it currently is...MOVE IT! (but be sure you let your cat know where you put it!)

6. Arthritis - what does this have to do with using the litter box?  A lot.  If your cat can't get into or out of the litter box, they won't use it.  Be aware of any special needs your cat may have.

7. Un-altered cats - spaying and neutering your cat can make a huge difference.  There is no more need to "mark" territory and there is less smell.  This is true for dogs too!!!

8. Medical concerns - there are many health conditions that could account for your cat not using its litter box.  If there is an extremely strong smell to the urine, a bright yellow color or brownish/red color, this can be a sign of serious health problems.  If your cat starts to urinate in the wrong areas of the home, check with your vet that there isn't an underlying health concern before trying any of the suggestions above.

Don't give up on your cat.  They want to go where you want them to go, sometimes they just need a little guidance, a little understanding and a bit of compromise on our parts. 

Spring has finally arrived and with it comes a whole new host of dangers for your pet.  You and you pets have been cooped up all winter and are just itching to get outside and now you have to worry about things hurting your pets out there too?  Don't worry, it isn't that bad when you know what to look out for.

Here is a run down of a few of the items to avoid while enjoying the sun with your pet!

Try an all natural way to fertilize your lawn...worm castings!  Its true!  Earth worms are highly beneficial to the soil and the plants that grow there.  A healthier lawn means less weeds.  Less weeds mean less harmful pests.  No chemicals mean that you and your pets can roll around in the grass and enjoy the sun without worrying that your lawn is going to kill you.

Their baaack!  Fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, the list goes on and on. The moist ground, the warmer days, all make for a perfect environment for these little pest to bred, multiply and make their way to you and your pets. If you live in the south, you should already be protecting your pet throughout the year but if you live in the northern states where it gets cold enough to kill these pests, now is the time to get your pet back onto flea and tick medication, get their immune system built up to fight the parasites and visit your veterinarian for deworming. 

Keeping you pet clean and healthy will help decrease the chance that these "bugs" with become a problem with your pet.

For those of you with seasonal allergies, this time of the year can be a nightmare.  It can be the same way with your pet.  The great thing is, is that what works for humans, can work for your pet as well.  Keeping your pet in tip top health will boost that immune system and allow them to fight allergens much better than those that lack in nutrition.  Benedryl is wonderful for pets as well.  Ask you veterinarian if this over the counter drug is right for your pet. 

This is the biggest concern of all.  It is not common knowledge what plants are poisonous to pets.The ASPCA has compiled a list of poisonous plants. Click their logo below to view their comprehensive listing.

Desensitization and Counter Conditioning -  Desensitization is the process by which an anxiety producing stimulus, in this case thunder, is presented so subtly as to not produce a fearful response. Very gradually the intensity of the stimulus, or volume of the thunder, is increased, always keeping it below the fear producing threshold. Counter conditioning is the conditioning of an individual to respond to the feared stimulus with a reaction incompatible with the undesirable response. For example, the dog is encouraged to enjoy delicious food treats, as the thunder volume increases.